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Pest Control

Identify garden pests accurately and treat them with organic methods that protect your plants without harming beneficial insects.

Most unsuccessful pest control comes from treating before identifying. A yellow leaf might be aphids, might be spider mites, might be nothing at all — and the spray that kills one does nothing for another while killing the predators that would have solved the problem on their own.

The order of operations matters: identify what is chewing, sucking or tunnel-ing, then remove the favourable conditions, then treat with the mildest effective method, and only escalate if the population is genuinely out of control.

These guides are organised around that sequence. Start with identification, then work down to the individual pest for the treatment that actually works against it.

Identification — the essential first step

Damage patterns are diagnostic. Chewed holes with dark droppings mean caterpillars; skeletonised leaves with metallic beetles mean flea beetles; fine webbing and stippled leaves mean spider mites. Match the pattern before you treat.

Sap-sucking pests

Aphids and fungus gnats are the two most common complaints. Both multiply fast, both are best caught early, and both respond well to simple physical and biological measures before any spray.

Chewing and climbing pests

Slugs, earwigs and caterpillars damage plants in different ways and live in different places. Slugs work at night at soil level, earwigs hide in damp debris during the day, and large caterpillars are often best hand-picked.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the safest way to control garden pests?

Prevention and physical methods first. Inspect weekly, hand-pick large pests, use row covers or insect netting as a physical barrier, and encourage beneficial insects by planting flowering species. Reserve broad-spectrum sprays for persistent problems, because they kill pollinators and predatory insects along with the pest.

How do I stop fungus gnats in houseplant soil?

They breed in constantly moist organic matter. Let the top layer of soil dry out between waterings, improve drainage, and use sticky traps to catch adults. For established infestations, a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution poured slowly into the soil kills larvae without harming the plant.

Are natural pest controls actually effective?

Yes, when applied correctly and early. Neem oil, insecticidal soap, Bacillus thuringiensis for caterpillars, and diatomaceous earth for crawling insects all work. They are slower than synthetic sprays and must be reapplied because they break down in sunlight and rain.